Fancy a long, leisurely drive along a rugged coastline, watching the colors of the wild Atlantic change as the sun peeps in and out of the clouds?  You can stop now and then for a stroll at some lonely beach or beside an isolated lighthouse, and if you’re in the mood, look for a coffee at a fishing village.

We did such a trip – from Bridgewater all the way to Yarmouth on the south shore of Nova Scotia.

We enjoyed some lovely stops on our way:

– Quaint fishing villages

– Solitary lighthouses in coastal settings

– Peaceful beaches and paths for seaside strolls

– The ever-changing views of the ocean, including seabirds and fishing boats

Here’s a map showing our driving route:

PORT MEDWAY LIGHTHOUSE PARK

Our first stop was Port Medway Lighthouse Park – a short drive of 41 kms which took about 30 mins. We arrived here on the morning of a Sunday and of course, the place was peaceful with literally no one around.

There was a very convenient place to park our car before we set out to take in the beauty of this place. The lighthouse was colorful and impressive, and stood right at the tip of the coast.

Built in 1899, the lighthouse marked the outer end of the original breakwater in Port Medway. It served as a guide to  many boats that used the harbour for fisheries and servicing the neighboring sawmill industries. The pyramid shaped wooden tower, often referred to as a ‘pepper pot style’, was unusual and interesting.

There were lightkeepers in the past until about 1967, when the light was automated. Then came a marked decrease in harbour traffic around the 1980s, and the Coast Guard decided to decommission the lighthouse in 1989. There has been some restoration of the building and the surrounds in early 2000s including development of the current Lighthouse park.

MEDWAY HEAD LIGHTHOUSE

As we drove along the Long Cove road, we noticed a signboard that indicated another lighthouse!

This was a more remote and quieter lighthouse stop with a path to reach the coast by its side.

We admired this colorful lighthouse and walked further towards the harbour entrance and the open coastline of the Atlantic.

We would have spent more time here but had to rush out due to the swarms of mosquitoes and bugs!

SHELBURNE

We continued our drive southward along the coast for about an hour (84 kms) to reach the pretty town of Shelburne.

We stopped at a popular restaurant called “Mr Fish”, located conveniently on the main road, for a small snack and delectable hot chocolate.

Shelburne has a wonderful ‘small town’ charm, in addition to maritime history, beautiful beaches and fresh seafood. Apart from the small town, Shelburne County offers plenty to see.

We drove into this little town, parked by the waterfront, and took a long walk along the historic waterfront and Dock street. So many things to see – well preserved 18-19 century buildings, bobbing boats on the water and small local shops.

There were a couple of colorful museums by the sea:

Dory Shop Museum displays the techniques of building traditional wooden fishing boats.

Shelburne county museum narrates the local history and preserved heritage.

There is an abundance of colour – apart from colorful buildings, there are bunches of colorful flowers adorning lampposts along the road.

SANDY POINT LIGHTHOUSE

About 8 kms from downtown is this picturesque lighthouse at the entrance to Shelburne harbor. The sandbar leading to the lighthouse was partly submerged in the water when we went there. At low tide, visitors can walk along the sand bar to the lighthouse.

Sandy Point Lighthouse has been a beacon for those who have traveled by water to Shelburne harbor. Not only in the past but even today the fishermen feel they feel safer when they see this light. This flashing red light is visible from 17 kms. Originally built in 1873, it was relocated to its current location in 1903.

CAPE FORCHU

Located about 116 kms from Sandy Point lighthouse and 11 kms from Yarmouth town, is the famous Cape Forchu.

Known for its distinctive lighthouse, rugged Atlantic coastline, vast ocean views and peaceful walking trails, Cape Forchu is a must-stop for all visitors to Yarmouth. It is great for photography, and a relaxed outing.

Things to do in Cape Forchu

-Admire the unique cylindrical ‘apple core’ lighthouse. The lighthouse stands above the rocks of the shoreline and is one of the region’s most recognizable landmarks.

– Walk around the grounds and the beginning of a long trail to enjoy dramatic rock formations, views of the choppy waves of the Atlantic and the expanse of the ocean.

– Leif Erikson Park –  Stroll along coastal paths and grassy grounds near the lighthouse. There are marked paths for the trails. Most of the cape is made of ancient Silurian-period volcanic formations including dark basalt, tuff and sandstones.

– Look for the impressive large (50 foot fin) whale skeleton called ‘foggy’ on display along the park grounds. It is an interesting addition to the attractions on your walk.

We reached Yarmouth at the end of a lovely day, with great stops along our road trip. After a day in Yarmouth, we started our next drive towards Annapolis Valley and New Brunswick.

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Jutting out into the wild Atlantic Ocean, with a massive coastline, gigantic tidal floods and greenery galore, Nova Scotia is a very pretty place indeed.
Our first trip to Nova Scotia in Eastern Canada turned out to be simply awesome. Scenic surroundings, varied colors, lots of waterfronts and lighthouses, and yes – not too many people….the perfect place for leisurely driving.

Nova Scotia, literally meaning ‘New Scotland’ was called Nova Francia earlier and New Caledonia in older maps. There are other nicknames too – “Canada’s Ocean Playground,” and “Bluenosers” (for the residents).  The French (who have to be different) called the whole region ‘Acadia’ or ‘Acadie’, not to forget the indigenous Mi’kmaq people whose name for NS was Mi’kma’ki.

Most things in Nova Scotia, roads in particular, are bilingual – English and French. I enjoyed revising my basic French while driving around!!

Our first base was in Bridgewater, a small town on the outskirts of Halifax. To start with, we spent three days driving to a few of the popular visitor spots not too far from Bridgewater.

PEGGY’S COVE and LIGHTHOUSE

One of the MUST STOPS in Nova Scotia is the popular Peggy’s Cove.

Located on the ‘Lighthouse Route’ the tiny village along with its lighthouse is the most-visited attraction in Nova Scotia. The 1-1/2 hour drive (102 Km) to Peggy’s Cove passes through scenic coastal towns and includes many views of the glistening Atlantic.

Peggy’s cove is a peaceful nook that provides some shelter from seasonal harsh weather and rough waves blowing in from the North Atlantic Ocean. Apart from the cove itself, we enjoyed the ambience created by many types of fishing gear strewn around, in between old wooden buildings. Boats, mostly small but tough looking, nudged against one another in the sheltered inlets of the sea. I loved taking photographs to capture the charm of this coastal village in my camera.

A short background and history of Peggys Cove, Nova Scotia

King George III of England had granted some land to a few fishermen and their families back in 1811, and they settled here. A story is also told of the lone survivor of a disastrous shipwreck, named Peggy – also known as ‘Peggy from the Cove’ here. Perhaps, the name Peggy is a derivative of Margaret and this may refer to St Margaret’s Bay – Peggy’s Cove is located at the entrance to this bay.

The fisherfolk and others who settled here had a hard life, fishing in the unpredictable North Atlantic and trading via the waterways – roads came much later. Today there is a Church, some general stores, a Post Office, schools and of course, the lighthouse too.

We also noticed that on the sides of the village, there are broad stretches of empty land. Apparently, this is the Peggy’s Cove Preservation areas, largely bogs and shallow ponds.

The Villages around the Cove

As we walked around the place, we loved the sights of the charming fishing village – loads of lobster traps, heaps of ropes, fishing nets drying in the wind and empty boats bobbing up and down on the water. I enjoyed trapping the scenes in my camera. The colors were awesome – how would they be in the fall, we wondered.

The roads to the villages are narrow and, like in many similar places, there is no parking facility except near the lighthouse.

There are a few restaurants around here. Many sell souvenirs and yummy seafood.

Lighthouse

Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, perched atop massive granite rocks, is the main attraction for most of the visitors to this place.

When we arrived, we were surprised at the number of tourists all around the place with their cameras and mobile phones in action!

It’s difficult to get a picture of the lighthouse without people around it.

A bit of history

The first lighthouse at Peggys Cove was a wooden structure built in 1868. The harsh weather of the coast destroyed it over the years, and in 1914 a concrete lighthouse was built – the current lighthouse – specifically designed to withstand the rough coastal conditions.

The bright white and red colour combination of the lighthouse can be seen from a distance and even through foggy conditions.

Initially, lightkeepers were needed to keep the lighthouse operational, but in 1958 it was automated.

It is the most photographed lighthouse in Canada.

One has to be very careful when while walking or balancing on the uneven rocks. There are unexpected, rough waves that come on very quickly and could sweep you away.

UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE TOWN – LUNENBURG

On the second day, we drove to the unique town of Lunenburg, just a 20 mins’ drive from Bridgewater. We were pleasantly surprised that it is a UNESCO World Heritage Town, featuring colorful houses, horse carriages, and an inviting waterfront!

Established in 1753, Lunenburg old town is one of the surviving examples of a planned British colonial settlement in North America. It has been laid out in a rectangular grid pattern. Lunenburg town has a seafaring history and a maritime culture – waiting to be explored.

Did you know that only 19 such towns, in the entire world, have been named as UNESCO world heritage sites?

We found the wooden architecture of the houses quite interesting. We learnt that some of them are from 18^th century.

Many streets have these old wooden architecture houses, all colorful, lining the narrow streets.

How about a ride on a horse drawn carriage?

Head up the hill towards Kaulbauch Street for sweeping views

We drove from the Fisheries Museum waterfront towards Kaulbauch street and to Gallows Hill and enjoyed some awesome views of the town including the colorful houses and the surrounding parts of the town.

The iconic Lunenburg Academy is impressive with its 3 storeys and 4 towers – an ancient schoolhouse builit in 1895 and painted in red, black and white.

View and set sail on the Legendary Bluenose II

Bluenose II is a 43 metre (143 feet) replica of the original schooner docked in Lunenburg. While the original Bluenose (Nova Scotia’s sailing ambassador) was launched in 1921, Bluenose II was launched in 1963.

If she is moored in Lunenberg while you are there, you could go on a 2 hour sail. It is a must-do activity in Lunenburg.

We were looking forward to going on this sail. Unfortunately, Bluenose II was not in the harbour on the day we visited Lunenburg! Maybe next time!

MAHONE BAY

Mahone Bay is a vibrant coastal town on Nova Scotia’s South Shore. It is located about an hour’s drive (85kms) from Halifax and about 14 minutes’ drive (11 kms) from Lunenburg.

It is popular for its rich maritime history and artisan boutiques apart from having a relaxed seaside atmosphere.

As we walked along the streets of Mahone Bay, we found this place to have a community feel. There are not too many formal cafes or restaurants. Instead, there are little shops selling coffee, tea, hot chocolate and savouries, with very informal sitting areas – chairs under shady trees. There are bake shops with delicious homemade pies and cakes, and local boutiques housed in heritage buildings.

Post cards on Mahone Bay often have pictures of the iconic 3 churches in a row – one Anglican, one Evangelical Lutheran and one United church. These churches were built in the late 1800s or early 1900s.

We guess that the fall season is the best time to visit Mahone bay when it will be resplendent with fall colors.

After three days in Bridgewater Nova Scotia, we started our drive southward to explore Yarmouth and surrounds.

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People choose their travel destinations based on their interests. Some love to explore history, architecture and culture. Others want some adventure like challenging hikes, climbs, trails and views.

Some simply want to be just there in that place.

Gangtey valley is such a place, where you will find serenity in nature – amidst black necked cranes, wild yaks, meadows, miles of potato fields, and nature trails.

Gangtey valley is located in the center of Bhutan, about a 4 hour drive (168 km) from Paro International Airport and about a 2 hour drive (81 kms) from Punakha valley.

GANGTEY VALLEY AND GANGTEY TOWN

A town of peaceful monasteries and interesting wildlife, Gangtey is nestled in a glacial valley with the backdrop of Black mountains. The valley looks awesome around the end of fall with ‘hoar frost’ (almost  like a sheet of snow) spread across the landscape, gradually melting away when the first rays of sunshine fall on it.

PHOBJIKHA VALLEY

Phobjikha Valley, a part of the Gangtey valley, is at an altitude of about 3000 m. It has a beautiful landscape and is surrounded by verdant forests, rolling hills and pretty villages.

This valley is special amongst all the various valleys in Bhutan, because it has ecological significance, due to which it has been designated as a conservation area.

It is the winter home to the endangered, black-necked cranes. These cranes migrate to Phobjikha Valley from the Tibetan plateau between the months of October and early February. This makes the valley attractive to birdwatchers, visitors and nature enthusiasts.

There are lots of things to see and do here for wanderlust travelers, backpackers and nature lovers.

Must-See Sights

BLACK-NECKED CRANE CENTER IN PHOBJIKHA VALLEY

The top thing to do here is visit the black necked crane centre and see the nesting and breeding grounds of this reclusive species.

The cranes visit Gangtey from November to March each year. One unusual feature of these cranes is that they circle the air three times before taking off. Locals believe that this is the cranes’ way of demonstrating gratitude for the food and shelter received during their seasonal stay in Bhutan. The arrival of the cranes is celebrated by the local community via the annual festival held at the Gangtey Monastery.

The black necked crane center (part of Royal Society for Protection of Nature (RSPN)) has displays, exhibits, running movies and a ton of information about these exotic birds. Alongside, there are observation centres that offer undisturbed views of the surrounding valleys that are often visited by these birds. The visitors are not allowed to go near the birds but can view them close and observe their behavior through powerful telescopes.

Visitors are allowed to walk along a certain path on the valley, close and yet not too close to where the cranes gather, and  observe them through binoculars. We enjoyed our long walks and got some great views. The weather was quite pleasant in November when we visited.

YAKS

Yaks in the Gangtey (Phobjikha) valley of Bhutan are an important central part of the local ecosystem and culture.

Yaks are heavily built animals with bulky frames, strong legs, rounded hooves, and very dense, long fur hanging lower than the belly. Yaks have trouble thriving at lower elevations and are prone to suffering from heat exhaustion above about 15 °C (59 °F). Nature has adapted their bodies to live in cold climates with a thick layer of subcutaneous fat and almost no functional sweat glands!

We saw some yaks grazing in the valley. They are domesticated and do not attack. Many tourists pose next to yaks and take photos.

GANGTEY POPULAR FOOD DELICACIES

Some yak meat delicacies here include yak steak, Yaksha Shakam (dried meat with cheese), smoked and dried yak meat (Kuru) (similar to jerky but often made with chili and radish), and several spicy stews and curries eaten with the local high fibre red-rice. Another interesting food item is yak cheese (Chhurpi) made from yak milk, smoked and chewed as a snack.

In addition, local specialities include stuffed yak meat and potatoes in dumplings and momos.

NATURE TRAILS

1)  Gangtey Nature trail

Visitors can walk along the Gangtey Nature Trail into the valley forest and get a chance to see black-necked cranes from a distance during their migration season.

The walk takes you to a hilltop from where you can enjoy magical views of the entire valley. The trails are fairly easy to ascend and hike through, and any fit traveler can do this hike.

The downhill trails pass through flowery meadows and remote villages adding more beauty and adventure to the hike. The 5.5 km, mostly downhill, trail starts from Gangtey monastery and takes about 2 hours to reach Khewa Lhakhang in the valley floor.

Difficulty Level: Easy ; Total Distance: 5.5km (approx.)

2)  Longtey Hike 

This is a rather more peaceful alternative and it takes the forest path of rhododendron and pretty villages in the valley.

First, there is a half hour drive from Phobjikha to the start point in the Longtey village. There is a descent, via a bushy route, to a group of houses in the village. The valley walk is particularly beautiful because the path is flanked by colorful rhododendron forests on both sides. You may see a yak or two on the way. After that comes a steep ascent, which might be a bit challenging. You will soon get awesome views of Gangtey Goempa and other structures like the Shedra below. You can opt to walk back or get picked up from this point.

Difficulty Level: Moderate; Walking time: 4 hr; Attraction: Longtey village & Kumbu village

3)  Phubja Trek

This is a rather strenuous trek and takes about 3 days and would interest ecotourism seekers.

VISIT THE IMPOSING GANGTEY MONASTERY

Perched on top of a small hill that overlooks almost the entire Phobjikha Valley, the spectacular Gangtey Monastery is unmissable. It is surrounded by a large village with families of the 140 gomchens who take care of the monastery.

Built in 1613, the monastery is home to 100-odd monks, and features one of the largest prayer halls in all of Bhutan.

As you approach the monastery, you enter an imposing central courtyard. The right side has been fully restored and its rich colours look impressive. The left side is currently unrestored. The main temple is built in Tibetan style.

TEST YOUR ARCHERY SKILLS

Archery is one of Bhutan’s national sport, and you can try your skill in many locations, including Gangtey. In fact, almost every household here has a traditional bow and arrow, and this sport is loved and practised.

Many tourists take part in this interesting activity and there are often teams and cheering involved making them fun events.

DOTSHO – ENJOY A TRADITIONAL STONE BATH

A speciality of Gangtey region is Dotsho – a traditional stone bath – which is relaxation at its best.  It is one of the must-try things to do in Phobjikha Valley and popular as a medicinal practice among the locals.

A Dotsho stone bath involves soaking in a wooden tub filled with water. River stones are first heated in a fire and then put in the water to make it slightly warm. The tubs are made from oak and local medicinal herbs and plants like Artemesia leaves are put in the tubs to relieve joint pains. The tubs are usually placed next to tall windows so that you can enjoy views of the valley during the bath. The aim is to calm the mind and promote relaxation.

ACCOMMODATION IN GANGTEY

Apart from hotels – both luxurious and budget, Gangtey offers a number of authentic traditional ‘Home stays’ mostly with spectacular mountain and valley views. Many homestays offer spa services and archery practice grounds.

As Gangtey valley is cold most of the year, the hotels offer heated rooms. Also, there are literally no TVs at the hotels! This fits with the immersive cultural experience they offer. The guests are encouraged de-stress and relax in the mountain lifestyle.

The Gangtey-Phobjikha valley is often referred to as the ‘Switzerland of Bhutan’ and attracts international tourists especially those interested in hiking, camping and birding or just relaxing!

After enjoying 3 wonderful days in Gangtey, we moved on further eastwards towards Trongso and Bumthang for more adventures.

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The most dangerous airport in the world!

This is Paro international airport, the gateway to Bhutan (unless you choose to drive up from India).

Hold on, it is not really as scary as it sounds.

Yes, the airport is located in a scenic valley surrounded by mountains as tall as 18,000 feet (5,486 m).  The approach is a meandering route between cliffs, and the runway is not visible until right at the end. BUT, only very experienced pilots are allowed to fly here, and that too under good atmospheric conditions.

So, we relaxed and enjoyed the flight, and lots of wonderful things awaited us when we arrived.

Our guide greeted us in the traditional way – a white scarf draped over the shoulder. We started off with a fairly short drive to Thimphu – the capital city – lively with markets and an interesting mix of cultures.

We based ourselves in a lovely hotel in Thimphu with views of the mountains from our balcony.

Here are some of the interesting places we visited:

‘SIMPLY BHUTAN’

‘Simply Bhutan’ is a one-stop place (a heritage museum) which introduces you to the Bhutanese way of life, and its culture, history and rituals, in an interactive way.

It was not in our original itinerary, but our guide recommended it, saying that it would give us an overview of everything in Bhutan.  He was right!

We really enjoyed the exhibits and live programs such as dance demonstrations, tasting of Bhutanese special rice wine, butter tea and some sample snacks too! There were mask dances and the significance of various masks were explained.

The kitchen section shows all the standard equipments used in Bhutanese kitchens. There is a section on archery and any visitor can participate to test his/her skills.

It was a fun place to learn a bit about the Bhutanese way of living.

BUDDHA DORDENMA

Buddha Point, also known as Kuensel Phodrang, is a popular tourist destination in Thimphu, Bhutan, known for the magnificent Buddha Dordenma Statue.

The giant 51 meter tall steel statue of Buddha is perched on a hill and can be seen from miles away. Buddha Dordenma is a massive three storey base with a large chapel full of thousands of smaller Buddha statuettes, many donated by devotees. Altogether, there are 125,000 smaller statues of Buddha inside.

The architecture and displays here are impressive. The chapel roof has some beautiful gold-colored mandalas. The Buddha is illuminated at night. The best part is the panoramic view of mountains and trees all around this place.

The Background

The primary purpose behind the establishment of Buddha Point was to create a sacred space dedicated to promoting peace, happiness and well-being, both for the Bhutanese people and for visitors from around the world.

The Buddha Dordenma statue was originally made in China, dismantled into smaller bits and shipped in here from Phuentsholing. It was constructed through the collaborative efforts of various skilled artisans and organizations. The project was started and overseen by the Bhutanese government. Several engineers, artists and organizations contributed their expertise to the actual construction.

The statue was commissioned by the fourth King of Bhutan, Jigme Singye Wangchuck, with the initial concept being proposed in the 1990s.

How do you get to the Buddha Dordenma

Most people and travel groups hire taxis or cars to get up to the Buddha Dordenma location.

But for those who enjoy walking and climbing, it is possible to walk to the Buddha point through an uphill, and challenging, trek. The awesome views and serene atmosphere make it a pleasurable experience for the trekker.

In addition, for mountain bikers, the road to the Buddha Point has a 3.5 km mountain bike trail.

DOCHULA PASS – Beauty & Serenity

Dochula Pass is truly one of the most scenic and spiritually uplifting places in Bhutan. Whether you’re a nature lover, history enthusiast, or spiritual seeker, Dochula Pass will give you a great experience!

Located 3,140 m (10,310 ft) above sea level, this is an absolutely “must” stop on the route from Thimphu to Punakha.  Here you will be treated to unforgettable panoramic views of the Himalayan ranges – on clear days.  You will also experience a calm ambience that is hard to come by.

The highlight here is the cluster of 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens (stupas), built in 2004 in honor of Bhutanese soldiers who sacrificed their lives in a battle against Assamese insurgents and as a symbol of peace. The Queen Mother, Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck, commissioned the shrine in 2003 after King Jigme Singye Wangchuck overcame the insurgents.

The white stupas, set against the backdrop of pine trees and snow-capped mountains, create an atmosphere of serenity and peace.

Even if the weather is misty (which actually adds a kind of charm), walking around the stupas feels soothing and pleasurable. The site is well maintained, and you can easily spend an hour here soaking in the views, taking photos, and reflecting in peace.

It is also worth climbing the hill behind the stupas where eleven meditation caves have been built, each dedicated to a deity.
There is also a small temple at the top of the hill and a café where you can enjoy hot tea and snacks before continuing your journey.

We were lucky to get an absolutely clear day and enjoy the lovely views of mountains beyond. We stayed for quite a while walking, admiring the 108 chortens, taking photographs and wrapping up our visit with some tea at the café.

Tip: Try to visit early in the morning on a clear day for the best chance to see the majestic Himalayan peaks. Carry a light jacket as it can get a bit cold. Going early helps with avoiding tour groups that arrive in big buses.

2 Good Hikes from DOCHULA PASS

–         A moderate hike from Dochula Pass down the hill through beautiful forests to the Lamperi Botanical Gardens.

–         A strenuous hike from here would be to hike up to the Lungchutse Temple through thick woodlands. There are rich bamboo underbrush and dense juniper shrubs at the foot of the temple with the backdrop of the mountains.

You can view one of Bhutan’s highest peaks, Gangkhar Puensum, and the world’s highest unclimbed mountain, from here. A nearby monastery, Druk Wangyal Llakhang, is also worth visiting.

CHELE LA MOUNTAIN PASS

Located at an altitude of about 3,988 m (13,083 ft) between Haa and Paro valleys is Chele La Mountain Pass. It is the highest motorable mountain pass in Bhutan.

At a comfortable 35 kms from Paro, it takes about 1.5 to 2 hours of driving through winding mountain roads. The last few kilometers can be rough road surface.

Once you reach there, there is a short trek to the highest point. There are panoramic views of the Himalayan range especially Mount Jomolhari and other valleys. This is a must-see destination in Bhutan.

The best time to visit would be around April to June when pretty rhododendrons bloom on the hills. October to March provides a different view with snow on the mountains.

In all seasons, it is advisable to wear adequate warm clothes as it is windy and quite cold at the pass.

We got fantastic views of snow clad peaks and distant winding roads from the top at Chelela pass. We walked around up and down taking pictures and feasting on the scenery.

There are a few challenging treks starting from here.

–         A 60 minute hike down from the Chelela pass to Kila Gompa Nunnery is a moderate hike. This route has some options to photograph birds and awesome views.

–         There is a challenging 8 hour hike from Haa Valley to Chele la pass (27 kms but a lot of climbing). This one takes you through rhododendrons and meadows, forests of juniper and hemlock, yak herders and grazing lands. You will also cross two high passes of Ningula and Kungkarpo.

–         This trek can be done in one day, however, you can also choose to spread it over two days, if you prefer taking it easy.

–         There is a Chelela ridge hike – which is a tough one that takes a full 24 hours.

For city dwellers like us, Bhutan offers beautiful sights that we rarely get to see, such as the ones we have described above.

After enjoying these sights and views, we set off to explore the north-eastern mountains and valleys of Gangtey.

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Bhutan is a land of mountains, nestled within which are the valleys where people live.

The most prominent amongst these is the spectacular Punakha valley, one of the warmest valleys in Bhutan, located about 73 kms (a 3-hour drive through twisty mountainous road) from Thimphu, the capital city.

Punakha is the former capital of Bhutan. Due to its lower elevation (1,200 m), the climate is warmer than the other parts of Bhutan. Punakha district is also Bhutan’s primary rice producer.

Another distinctive feature of Punakha is the confluence of two of Bhutan’s famous rivers – Pho and Mo Chu.  Near the point where these rivers meet is the most prominent landmark of Punakha – the Punakha Dzong (fortress).

These rivers are also home to one of the last surviving populations of the critically endangered, white-bellied herons.

Punakha offers some awesome Himalayan views, some good trekking routes, Kayaking and Rafting, and several picturesque and serene temples/ castles.

We based ourselves in a lovely hotel overlooking miles of paddy fields, with mountains looming on the horizon, and enjoyed two days here.

PUNAKHA DZONG

A Dzong is a traditional medieval fortress in Bhutan that is partly an administrative office and partly a Buddhist center.

The Dzong is known for its size and architectural expertise, and also it is the venue for the most important ceremonies in the Kingdom of Bhutan.

The majestic Punakha Dzong is located at an elevation of 3900 ft (1200m). It is a 6-storey structure with a central tower.

The doors and windows of this fortress are built using stones, rammed earth and timber. It’s a huge structure with 3 courtyards. There is a big white stupa and a Bodhi tree in the central courtyard.

Punakha Dzong served as the seat of the Government of Bhutan until the capital was relocated to Thimpu in the mid 1950s.

There were attacks on the fortress by Tibet in 1939 and 1944, but it survived. The dzong also suffered fires between 1750 and 1849, and was badly destroyed by an earthquake in 1897 – but was rebuilt.

The beauty of Punakha Dzong lies in its location – the confluence of the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu rivers. Bazam Bridge has to be crossed to access the Dzong.

An impressive sight for tourists would be the exquisite murals in the ‘one hundred pillar hall’. It also has carved woodwork and colorful paintings – a perfect spot for photographers.

Although every season is good for a visit to the Dzong, the month of May is special with gorgeous purple Jacaranda flowers (Jacaranda mimosifolia) adding to the beauty of the courtyard. These flowers look a lot like the popular cherry blossoms!

PUNAKHA SUSPENSION BRIDGE

Stretching 160-180 metres, the Punakha suspension bridge is the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in Bhutan. Perched high above the Po Chhu river, this bridge is worth checking out if you are not afraid of heights.

The bridge is located above the broad and rapid Pho Chhu river. The bridge was constructed for the lamas of Punakha Dzong to visit the villages nearby.

It serves as a vital connection between Punakha town and Punakha Dzong, frequently used by locals as a convenient shortcut.

We loved crossing this bridge, with the wind swaying the bridge a bit, and enjoyed stopping now and then for some pictures of the valleys and rivers below. It was fun to enjoy an ice cream at the other end of the bridge.

There is a good half hour walk over uneven grounds to reach the starting point for crossing the suspension bridge. It is ideal for those who love the thrill of a quick adrenaline rush and spectacular views!

WANGDUE DZONG (Wangdue Fortress)

In the olden days, rivalry and fighting were common amongst the various tribes living in different valleys.  This made it important for each valley to have a secure place for defence – a fortress (or two).

Built in the 17th century, the Wangdue Dzong was among the first dzongs built by Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel. Later, it was enlarged, more storeys were added and a statue of Lord Buddha was installed.

This fortress overlooks the convergence of two rivers –  Dongchu and Punatshang chu.

As with many monuments around the world, Wangdue Dzong was destroyed a few times by fire, earthquake and even an electrical short circuit (latest in 2012), but was rebuilt every time.

The Dzong has 14 temples. There are 3 doorways and 3 courtyards. The first gate is the entrance, the second gate leads to the inner sanctum, and the third gate leads to the interiors of the structure.

A mentionable point – there are endless flights of stairs to climb, which makes the visit to the Dzong a mini-hike!

Wangdue Dzong can also be viewed from the Wangdue T Arch bridge below.

It looks magnificent!

ADVENTURES & HIKES IN PUNAKHA

There are many opportunities for river rafting, kayaking and camping in Punakha Valley.

RIVER RAFTING

Bhutan has many rugged, untamed rivers meandering through the mountainous terrain, which offer river rafting enthusiasts a great experience. A couple of the popular ones are :

HIKES & WALKS

–        Lamperi Botanical Park near Dochu La offers long stretches of walks

–        Khamsum Yuelly Namguel Chorten  – A 4-storey temple perched on top of Yambesa Hill – This offers hikes for an hour or so high on the hill in the upper Punakha valley.

–        Visit Jana village. The hike starts from the suspension bridge near Kichu Resort. Cross the Dang Chhu river.  The route traverses a village, rice fields and takes about 1.5 hours to reach Jana village. The to-and-fro hike takes about 3 to 3.5 hours.

–        Lamperi to Lumbitsawa – This is a 4-hour hike mostly downhill through forest ground from Lamperi Park. It is great for birdwatchers especially in Spring and Autumn.

For the serious enthusiast, there are several long treks, lasting up to a fortnight, which take you to the remote corners of the kingdom. There are also camp organizers who help groups interested in camping.

After spending a couple of days in Punakha, we moved on further northeast towards Bhumthang for more adventures.

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The highest mountain peaks in the world – Mount Everest and Kanchenjunga – glistened in the sunshine as our plane slowly drifted down, weaving through valleys flanked by verdant hills.

Who needs in-flight entertainment when you can see the Himalayas from the aircraft window?

Soon we arrived at the Land of Happiness – Bhutan.

Why this name, you may ask.

Because Bhutan is the only country that does not measure GNP (gross national product) to determine prosperity.  It measures GNH (gross national happiness) to determine the level of well-being of its people. And yes, the GNH number is increasing steadily!

Let’s step back a little.

Bhutan is a tiny country, with a population of about 800,000 people living in a very mountainous nation slightly smaller than Switzerland, of which 74% is thick forest. The altitude varies dramatically from about 300 m (1,000 ft) to about 7,500 m (24,800 ft). The average elevation in most places is about 3,000 m (10,000 ft).

It lies at the eastern end of the Himalayan mountain range, sandwiched between powerful neighbours – China and India – to its North and South.

Some things struck us immediately upon arrival:

–  Everything is colourful and spotlessly clean.

–  Everyone speaks English.

–  People follow a dress-code (See below)

–  And yes, people smile a lot, look happy, and are extremely polite and helpful.

TRADITIONAL BHUTANESE COSTUMES 

A few more unusual things:

– There are no traffic lights anywhere, though there are traffic policemen in a few places. Everyone follows one rule – give way to the person on your right.

– Smoking is (virtually) banned. You cannot smoke in “public spaces”, which includes roads and open spaces.

– Though education and healthcare are free, there is no old age pension. Not needed, because children take care of parents.  No children?  Relatives and neighbours chip in.

– When the ruling Monarch tried to introduce democracy, people protested because they wanted to be ruled by the King. Eventually, the people yielded, and now there is an elected Parliament.

– Foreigners cannot roam around Bhutan on their own. You must have a licensed guide with you at all times.

Overall, people follow social norms in everything, of their own accord, whether or not anyone is watching.

FOOD and DRINKS

Some bits of it are unusual, like tea made with salt and butter, or red chillies mixed with cheese – a mandatory side-dish.

But no worries, wholesome and very palatable food is available everywhere, and the hotel buffets give plenty of choice. Every kind of meat (including Yak) is served, and alcohol is freely available. Careful – be sure to check the level of spiciness before you try anything unknown.

Some dishes can be dynamite.

Some popular favorites are Phaksha Paa (pork with chillies), Jasha Maru (stewed minced chicken – unique), Momos (dumplings), and Ema Datashi (chilli and cheese stew).

SIGHTS

There is plenty to see, and the overall ambience is – in one word – outstanding.

There are peaks and valleys, waterfalls and rivers, gardens and forests, plus monuments,  giant statues, temples, old forts, museums – you name it.

We were lucky to be here in the second half of November, when the sky was a clear blue and the air crisply cool, so that far-away snow-capped peaks were clearly visible.

In this blog post, we have shared a few glimpses of the enchanting scenery and colors that we came across.

The only hitch we faced in Bhutan was the climbing. Steps and slopes, often quite steep, are everywhere, and you need strong legs and knees to get around to all the places that you want to reach. See the image below – 82 steps from dining room to hotel room!

Yes, it was a bit tough at times, but truly worth the effort.

HIKING and TREKKING

Bhutan offers myriad options for adventures on foot, from short hikes to extended treks over mountains that involve many nights of camping under the stars. Of course, this was not our cup of tea, but if it is yours, Bhutan is a great place to visit.

HOTELS

Bhutan is not a crowded country, and charming sceneries are aplenty. Consequently,  it is not difficult to find great locations for hotels.

The ones that we stayed in, though not 5-star, were beautifully located properties with more-than-adequate living spaces. The staff were always helpful, attentive and smiling, putting in great effort to make us really comfortable. Food was good to excellent. Yes, WiFi was quite patchy in most hotels due to the mountainous nature of the landscape. Overall, the hotels were very good.

TRAVEL

Sorry, tourists are not allowed to drive rental cars in Bhutan. You need to rent a car with a driver, in addition to the mandatory guide!

The highways, which connect the major towns, are very good, and traffic is sparse. The inner roads, such as the ones that connect the highways to villages, are moderately good, and the final stretches to the hotels (fortunately, a few hundred yards at most) can be unpaved and bumpy.

Speeds are absurdly low, the average on the highways being about 25-30 mph. As a result, journeys between towns can be quite long, but not fatiguing, because the fascinating scenery keeps you engrossed.

Finally,

THE GUIDE

Being independent travellers, it is inherently uncomfortable for us to have a strange person with us all the time.

Fortunately, our guide was excellent – very well spoken, knowledgeable, punctual, and attentive to our needs.

Becoming a licensed guide is not easy. One has to be educated, fluent in English and thoroughly aware of all aspects of Bhutanese history and culture. Hence, chances are that the guide you will find (there are quite a few women, too) is very likely to be of the ‘right” sort.

We felt the need to share some details about this beautifully quirky country, so different from any of the others that we have visited.

As regards the sights, more blog posts are coming up soon..

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Meandering country roads, abundant greenery, picturesque streams, and old churches.

Who could ask for more?

But wait…..

Throw in a couple of spectacular palaces, too!

This is what we came across during our road trip through Northern Spain, where we happened to stay in a remote village called Lugar Vilar Riberio – just 40 mins drive from the famous Santiago De Compostela.

We stayed in a cute, stand-alone cottage with a kitchen and two small bedrooms, an acre of green lawn and no visible structure for miles in front of the cottage. Admittedly, the Wifi worked only on our iPhones and not on our laptops, but never mind.

Every walkable road around had huge slopes, and even a half hour walk gave us a good workout. The weather in May was simply perfect – pleasantly cool with blue skies and bright sunshine.

We spent 3 days here cooking, relaxing and enjoying our time in this heavenly countryside.

During our drives around the place, we came across some real hidden gems.

PAZO DE OCA or PALACIO DE OCA

A very pleasant half-hour drive through lovely country roads brought us to this beautiful 18^th century palace located at a short distance from Santiago de Compostela in the A Estrada region of Galicia.

The entrance doorway leads to a huge square dominated by a Baroque chapel and a prominent stone cruceiro (Gaelic cross), connected to the palace by a gallery. Moving onwards, you will enter a historical complex which includes the palace itself and the gardens.

The whole estate is built in Baroque architecture, and its well-maintained gardens stretch for miles around it. Camellias, Magnolias and Azaleas feature amongst the variety of plants in these gardens,  arranged in a French style totally unique in Spain.

A walk through its huge gardens took us a couple of hours as we stopped here and there to admire and take photos.

There are ornamental ponds and intricate stonework – the perfect location for lovers of horticulture and history. We were impressed by the channeled waterways with swans and geese swimming in them. The water is made to flow very cleverly, using the natural slopes of the land and the force of gravity, through ornamental fountains and channels that provide water to the plants.

Apart from ornamental flowers, there are groves of oranges and lemons on different levels

This Pazo is truly a testament to the grandeur of Galician nobles and gives a feel of the Galician cultural heritage.

It is totally enjoyable to drive to this hidden gem through beautiful winding village roads with tons of greenery around. Walking through the vast gardens and admiring the ponds, stonework and landscape provides a great workout for the legs and feast for the eyes. Apart from history, the palace and gardens would best suit photographers and those who love to visit less-crowded destinations with countryside settings.

The popular name “Versalles Gallegos” meaning the Galician Versailles by which it is known, is very apt for this beautiful castle and gardens.

PAZO DE SANTA CRUZ DE RIVADULLA

Pazo de Santa Cruz de Rivadulla is another impressive historic estate with a vast garden. It is located in an ancient site called Ortigueira, in Ulla Valley near Sacro Peak in Vedra, Spain.

The Armada family, who have owned this property for several generations, have put in a lot of hard work to wall up the property and divide it into distinct areas – forest land, agricultural land, an orchard and a garden for the house. The planning and development of the estate was originally done way back in the 1870s.

The popularity of this place is based on two things: its exclusive and vast collection of Camelias and its unusually dense Olive tree garden.

Three main attractions here – Olive tree walk (for miles), a unique boxwood tunnel and a pretty waterfall.

Botanists, historians, photographers and those interested in long garden walks will love this place.

The olive tree garden, lined with long, shaded avenues, is regarded as one of the most creative ideas in Galicia. In 2015 it won the AEMO award for the best monumental olive garden in Spain.

Olives from oil producing trees (Granja de Ortigueira) were processed in a Roman style granite wheel mill and beam press, which have been in use until fairly recently.

Ulla wine was produced from grapes, red and white, and stored in barrels in the cellar in the traditional way.

A famous Baroque Compostelan architect built the unique “la Coca” (Galician name that is given to the winged dragon of mythology) fountain located in front of the main building.

There is also a nursery featuring a collection of several Camellias varieties.

From a botanical point of view, the important feature of this estate is its collection of monumental trees including Camellias, Olive trees, Boxwood, and giant magnolias.

Apart from the two palaces, there are many other pretty spots such as old bridges, lakes, plenty of old churches and loads of slopy paths here for hikes and walks.

We moved on to northern Portugal after three days in Vilar and headed to the picturesque Aveiro, the Portuguese canal city.

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In all our road trips, we go chasing waterfalls – some that are well known, and others that are hidden gems that we come across accidentally. Every waterfall-viewing also involves either walking uphill or downhill, often over rough terrain, and that provides our legs with a thorough workout without having to go on a hike just for the sake of exercise.

On our 3-week driving trip through the states of Odisha and Chhattisgarh in Eastern India, we took the inner roads passing through villages and small towns, enjoying the countryside scenery. We came across a few beautiful waterfalls that are worthy of mention.

CHITRAKOTE WATERFALL

Located on the river Indravati in Bastar district of Chhattisgarh state of India, Chitrakote Waterfall is a spectacular waterfall. It is a short (40 Km) drive from Jagdalpur and a long (275 Km) one from Raipur. Chitrakote Waterfall is considered the largest fall in India (due to its width that goes upto 300 metres during monsoon season) with water throughout the year  – a pride of the state of Chhattisgarh and of the Bastar district.

Due to its horse-shoe shape (seen only in monsoon all along the curve when there is most water at the falls), it is referred to as the Niagara of India. Dense forest surrounds the picturesque waterfalls, which further enhances its natural beauty.

Falling from a height of about 90-feet, it is a lovely sight during summer and fall, especially at night due to its stark white color. In contrast, It is almost reddish during the monsoon season.

We visited during November and there were two wide lovely white streams and a number of smaller streams. It was still beautiful, and we could see it from our hotel balcony.

Things to see and do at the falls:

Apart from admiring the falls and taking photographs, take the fun boat ride that takes you closer to the falls and lets you feel the water spray.

There is an interesting Nature Trail that starts and ends at the waterfall site. It involves steep steps and narrow paths with dense trees around, with a lovely bonus of grand views from various perspectives.

SANAGHAGARA WATERFALL

Located about 6 kms from the city of Keonjhar in Odisha is the beautiful Sanaghagara Waterfall. It is about 223 kms from the city of Bhubaneswar.

The waterfall is about 100 feet high and looks very impressive. The nature park is very well maintained and has several walking trails and scenic views. The area around the waterfall has diverse flora and fauna, making it ideal for photography and nature walks.

The adjoining Nature park is a popular weekend picnic spot for tourists and local visitors near Keonjhar. There are remote cottages and food options for those who wish to stay overnight.

There is also a large artificial lake and boating facilities. A walk around this lake is quite pleasant with good views. Overall, it is a very pleasant spot, though crowds build up at times, and we suggest you visit on weekdays for a quieter experience.

BADA GHAGARA WATERFALL

About 9 kms from Keonjhar town and not too far from Sanaghagara waterfall is another lovely natural attraction – Bada Ghagara waterfall. The area surrounding this fall is very tranquil and has good flora and fauna, and students visit this place to study the large variety of plant life.

Bada Ghagara reservoir was built on the Machakandana River. It serves as one of the major sources of water supply to Keonjhar town. The waterfall is formed by this river – a tributary of Baitarani River. Monsoon season is the ideal time to see the fall at its best.

The fall itself is about 100 feet high and is in a dense forest area. The best part is the sound of gushing water and the mist created by the falls.

The area around is like a nature reserve with slopes through the forest for quiet walks admiring the birds and fauna. Small bridges and streams add to the beauty of the place.

There is a dam on the downstream side of the fall covered with green forest and hills. Mornings and evenings are good times to visit to view sunrise and sunset.

RANI DUDUMA WATERFALL

Located in the Koraput district of Odisha, Rani Duduma waterfall is truly a treasure of Koraput. Tucked away amidst forests and rolling hill, this 70 foot high waterfall creates a picturesque cascade effect as the water tumbles down from the Nandapur hill.

The site was a short (26 Km) drive from Semiliguda where we were based.

A lot of work has been to make it convenient for the tourists to visit this waterfall. There is a good parking lot for quite a few cars, adjacent to the ticket counter and the main entrance. You have to climb up a long winding flight of steps, flanked on both sides by shapes of large ‘color pencils’.  In between you will be passing under a huge statue of a gorilla !!  In some places the steps are quite steep, and we were huffing and puffing by the time we reached the viewpoint – a good workout.

When you finally reach the river and the falls, you will really enjoy the majesty of the falls, the crystal clear water, and the quiet charm of the surrounding hills and jungles. You can take a dip if you like – there is no restrictions on getting into the stream. As you may expect, this attracts more people, especially youngsters.

It is always preferable to choose a weekday rather than a weekend for quieter visits. Winter is a better season to visit rather than the monsoon period when it can get slippery near the falls.

En route to the fall, there is a beautiful park with slides and swings for children. There are some lovely walking paths too. You can have a great picnic here if you wish.

Urma Garh Waterfall

Not so easy to get to, but totally worth the visit!

The Urma Garh waterfall is located in the Kandhamal forest, nestled in serene and natural surroundings. It is a perfect peaceful getaway with walking and climbing opportunities, and a nice weekend picnic spot if you are so inclined. There are a number of rocky steps to reach the falls.

The waterfall cascades down the hills and flows through large rocks and forest for a long distance. It was lovely to sit at the viewpoint and watch the falls flow below.

We had to drive 25 kms from Phulbani (the closest town), quite a bit off the main road along a narrow but scenic road, flanked by trees.  There aren’t any sign boards directing you to your destination, and you need to be careful not to get lost.

LOVER’S POINT

Lastly, although this may not qualify as a proper waterfall, Lover’s Point is a must-visit spot located en route to a popular hill station called Daringbadi. It is about 13 kms from Daringbadi and it is best to stop here either on the way to or from Daringbadi. There is a small parking lot for 4-5 cars.

Dense forests and hills surround the place. It’s just a peaceful place to walk around, take in the views and do photo-ops.

We also came across a random field of brilliant sunflowers en route!

HADAGARH & SALANDI DAM

An impressive dam and I had to include it here!

This dam is a huge source of water especially for irrigation purposes supplying to the agricultural fields in the area. There is also a Wildlife sanctuary here.

The location has a tranquil environment with high mountain ranges. It’s an ideal place for photographers and picknickers. 

India has a number of places like the ones described above and these are not always part of tourist lists. These are best explored with a car and some impromptu, and adventurous, drives.

We had a great time chasing waterfalls in Eastern India and look forward to doing more in other parts of the country!

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Note: My 100th blog post!  When I started blogging a few years ago, I never thought of reaching this milestone. I’m happy to have reached here and hope to continue this pleasurable journey, with the support of all you readers. 😊

Sintra and Cascais – we simply had to check out these two charming towns before wrapping up our month-long tour of Portugal and Spain.

We avoid staying within city limits wherever possible, and hence we were looking out for a suitable base that would be away from the bustle and yet close enough to these two towns, and we found it – in Colares, a seaside nook next to the Praia Grande.

Colares turned out to be a great base, the perfect location from which to explore Sintra and Cascais, both of which were well within an hour’s drive from our base.

We did day trips to Sintra and Cascais – both charming towns offering unique experiences.

Sintra has so many attractions that two days were just not enough to see them all but we made a choice of what was of interest to us.

SINTRA

The fairy tale city of Sintra (a UNESCO world heritage site) has historical castles with verdant gardens.

We started our Sintra tour by first parking our car in a secure parking slot. As you could expect, Sintra, like many densely built-up small towns, has narrow roads and parking is hard to find.

Uncharacteristically, we took a 2-hour Tuk-Tuk road trip that gave us an overview of Sintra. Our plan was to quickly scan the various places of interest in the town during the tuk-tuk ride, and then decide which attractions merited a longer, and more detailed visit.

The driver-cum-guide took us to about a dozen top attractions, and his short lectures on the historical facts and stories of each place gave us a good overview of the sights worth seeing in Sintra.

Sintra offers you palaces, castles, and mysterious gardens, provided you are ready to walk up and down steep slopes, climb endless steps and tackle uneven road surfaces.

Here are some of the places we enjoyed exploring:

Quinta da Regaleira

This is a huge property with a palace and a chapel, amidst a massive garden. There are fountains, wells, small lakes, grottoes, and towers. It was a bit like the good old Alice in Wonderland. We explored the park with its maze-like paths full of colourful plants and trees.

The palace was built in Gothic style and decorated with many ornaments, pinnacles, and gargoyles. The rooms are decorative too, with carved wooden ceilings.

In the middle of the park is an ‘Initiation well’. You can go down the circular stairs which leads to a tunnel and further to another unfinished well. There are stories of rituals performed in these wells.

Pena Palace and Gardens

Once the summer home of the Portuguese royalty, Pena Palace (together with its gardens) is easily Sintra’s most visited site.

The palace is a huge, red-n-yellow and gaudy colored structure featuring several forms of architecture – Neo-gothic, neo- Manueline, neo-Islamic and neo-Renaissance.

It is certainly impossible to see all of it in a few hours, but we spent almost 3 hours here trying to cover what we could.

Some highlights of the Pena Palace and its gardens

The Impressive Triton gate: this is truly a grand entrance that features a mythical half-man and half-fish (like the male version of a mermaid). This is a popular spot for tourists to take a picture.

The 200-hectare park around the palace offers an amazing opportunity to wander around amidst tall trees (Cedar and Sequoia), lakes, grottoes, winding paths and rocks. There are bridges, benches and garden nooks, too. Here and there you will find small structures shaped as temples and churches, and also fountains, columns, and small ponds where ducks and water fowls frolic.

The best thing to do is just walk along the wall. We enjoyed the grand view of the surroundings and some parts of the castle itself including the Moorish castle.

Old Historic center of Sintra

This is the must-do thing in Sintra – walk around the narrow streets of the historic centre. Shops and cafes add to the charm although it can be a bit crowded here and there. Overall, a lovely experience!

Palacio de Seteais

Seteais Palace was built in 1783 and features two wings connected by a triumphal arch. You can get a good glimpse of Pena Palace at a distance through this arch!

It was home to aristocrats for many years and in 1953, it was turned into a luxurious hotel.

Fonta da Sabuga

Sabuga fountain is known for its fresh spring water and is open to the public.

This little fountain, dating back to 1757, displays a Baroque design with an interesting blue and yellow design around a solar motif.

CASCAIS

Yes, Portugal has an amazingly pretty coastline, and at Cascais you will find one of the best stretches of beach alongside the deep blue waters of the Atlantic. The cliffs here are quite high and feature some unusual natural wonders.

Boca do Inferno

One of the most famous natural attractions in Cascais, Boca do Inferno is a dramatic cliff formation where the rugged Atlantic waves crash against the rocks, creating caves and unique sliced cliffs – a spectacular view. A great spot for sunset viewing and photography.

It has a convenient parking arrangement and several cafes and restaurants.

Cabo do Roca

This is the most western spot in continental Europe.

Historically, even from the Roman times, it has been an important place for sailors. The views are panoramic – especially from 140 meters above the sea.

It has one of the oldest lighthouses on the Portuguese coast. Dating from 1772 and automated since 1990, Cabo da Roca lighthouse is still operational today, guarding the entire Atlantic coastline.

Praia Grande

We were lucky in our choice of accommodation.  We had an unrestricted view of the sea from the deck of our apartment, with the added bonus of watching paragliders floating far above the water.  Besides, very close by we found an easy walking path leading to the steps that went down to the beach, where we saw the huge ‘dinosaur footsteps’ on the vertical rocks of the cliffs.

Alas, all lovely holidays must come to an end, and eventually we had to pack up and take the short drive to Lisbon airport for the long flight home.

Ah well…..maybe we will be back here another time.  But, there are so many more places to see!

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Alentejo, in the south of Portugal, is a region that is popular for its historical sites, expansive plains and cork production. It is located north of the Algarve and south of the Tagus river. It stretches from the Spanish border in the east to the Atlantic on the west.

We just scratched the surface of Alentejo – visited Evora, a UNESCO world heritage town and the capital of Alentejo, and the historic Monsaraz castle.

We drove in from Almacao de Pera after 3 days in Algarve and based ourselves just inside the old wall city of Evora, a great location with several historical attractions within walking distance. Taking the car out in Evora is a pain manoeuvring through the narrow streets and finding no parking space! So, we parked our car in one of the ‘free parking lots’ nearby and explored the city by foot.

Évora is marked by Roman, Moorish, and Portuguese influences. You see all of this in the well-preserved Old Town, Roman Temple, and medieval walls. The city flourished during the 15th century as a center of arts and learning under the patronage of the Portuguese kings, becoming a symbol of the Golden Age of Portugal.

EVORA CATHEDRAL

The Cathedral of Evora is one the best places to visit. Built between 1186 and 1250, the cathedral is quite an impressive monument. It is made almost fully with granite. The chapel of Evora Cathedral is a unique example of the hybrid Plateresque architecture.

There are two bell towers, one of which has a narrow spiral staircase (135 steps) which gets you to the terrace. This terrace is the highest point of the city. The views from here include the entire historic city within the walls and the new city with many neighbourhoods. Some extensive plains and mountains of Ossa and Portel can also be seen on a clear day.

After spending time at the terrace, we walked down to the cloisters, formed by Gothic arches, surrounding the courtyard inside.

We were impressed by the workmanship of the main Gothic portal of the cathedral – quite detailed, featuring the sculptures of the twelve apostles and ornate carvings.

It took us over 2 hours walking through the cathedral, the terrace and the museum.

ROMAN TEMPLE

Another interesting historical sight, almost adjoining the cathedral is the Roman Temple – also known as the Temple of Diana. It is a well-maintained structure that is symbolic of the city’s ancient Roman culture and architecture.

We have seen an almost identical structure, also the temple of Diana, in the Spanish city of Mérida in Extremadura, just across the border from Evora a few years ago.

PRACA DO GIRALDO

It is the historic square in the middle of the city. It is a vibrant place with many cafes, restaurants and shops. The 16^th century marble fountain is the central attraction with the Church of Santo Antao and the Banco de Portugal building near it.

JARDIM DIANA

This public park is just a stone’s throw from the Temple of Diana. It’s a great place with a lot of greenery, flower beds and large architectural odd-shaped structures and some statues. One of the statues is dedicated to Francisco Eduardo de Barahona Fragoso – a renowned Portuguese writer. If you walk to the edge of the park, you can get a great view of city below.

We admired an interesting image/ mural of a Portuguese woman drawn by a talented artist outside one of the buildings in the city. See below.

AQUEDUTO DA AGUA DE PRATA

This massive Roman aqueduct looms large over the medieval town of Evora–when approaching Evora from east or west it is one of the first things you see.

Also called the Silver Water Aqueduct, it is an engineering marvel from the Renaissance era, constructed between 1531 and 1537. It was designed by architect Francisco de Arruda, and spans approximately 9 kilometers.

Winding its way through the countryside, channeling water from Graca do Divor reservoir, the aqueduct supplied the city with water for more than four centuries until 1979.

It was interesting to see that some sections of the aqueduct, particularly along Rua do Cano, feature houses, shops, and cafes integrated into its arches, blending historical architecture with modern living. This aqueduct displays Portugal’s engineering prowess and remains an important part of Evora’s water supply system. Once again, this reminds us of a similar aqueduct and a gravity dam in Merida, Spain (just across the eastern border).

NATIONAL POWER OUTAGE IN PORTUGAL

During our stay in Evora, we experienced the scary power outage situation (called the Iberian peninsula blackout) that affected the whole of Portugal and the peninsular parts of Spain. It lasted for over 10 hours from around midday on 28 April 2025. We had to scurry around to get some candles, ready-to-eat groceries and beverages, not knowing how long it will last.  We survived, however, and were happy that it ended sooner than expected! Also, it was the month of April and so the weather was kind and cool or else we would have fried in the Portuguese summer heat!

On the third day, we drove out of Evora to explore some more historic sites. We headed towards Monsaraz which is about 60 kms away and took over an hour to reach.

REGUENGOS DE MONSARAZ

We stopped here en route to Monsaraz.

There is an imposing church called San Antonio Church visible from quite a distance.

The church, also known as Igreja Matriz de Santo Antonio, is a tall and narrow structure shaped like a Latin cross, with a bell tower in the middle of the façade. We would have liked to explore the insides of this church but the doors were closed.  Apparently, this happens when you visit places at times other than the peak season!

Apart from the church, there were open markets here selling handicrafts such as pottery items and handmade Reguengos blankets. The central square has a few cafes and restaurants.

MONSARAZ VILLAGE & CASTLE

A charming medieval village and the castle of Monsaraz are perched atop a hill with stunning views of the surrounding vineyards, the Alqueva Lake and the Guadiana Valley.

When you drive up the hill, you will first reach this big open area with panoramic views from all around the edge.

Then you drive further up on the steep road to reach the village and the castle.

Its well-preserved ancient walls, narrow cobblestone streets, and whitewashed houses take us to a picturesque step back in time. The village also has a church, shops and restaurants.

As per history, the medieval village of Monsaraz took shape over 800 years ago. There are many megalithic structures such as cromlechs and menhirs. The village with its present structures and fortifications was developed in the 12^th and 13^th centuries after the Christian reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula.

What do you do in Monsaraz?

Stroll the slopy cobblestone streets of the village, enjoy the views of the valleys below from every corner, and perhaps have a meal in a restaurant with a great view.

You can see the Alqueva Lake, a vast artificial lake created by damming the Guadiana River.  It is the largest reservoir in Western Europe. Boating and bird watching are popular activities near the lake.

We were surprised to see shops selling olive oil, soap, herbs and alcohol too!

A key spot to visit is the Monsaraz castle standing at the southern corner of this fortified village.

Constructed in the 14th century, it served as a military stronghold and then later was used as a bullfighting arena in the 19th century. We walked the grounds of the arena, climbed to the top and really enjoyed exploring this place.

Another place to visit is the church – Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Lagoa. Thankfully, the church was open to visitors and we could admire the 14th century marble tomb and the carvings of saints.

After a lovely day out, we drove back to Evora, our base.

We had 3 lovely days in Alentejo region soaking in Portuguese history and headed further north to discover more of Portugal.

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