Jutting out into the wild Atlantic Ocean, with a massive coastline, gigantic tidal floods and greenery galore, Nova Scotia is a very pretty place indeed.
Our first trip to Nova Scotia in Eastern Canada turned out to be simply awesome. Scenic surroundings, varied colors, lots of waterfronts and lighthouses, and yes – not too many people….the perfect place for leisurely driving.
Nova Scotia, literally meaning ‘New Scotland’ was called Nova Francia earlier and New Caledonia in older maps. There are other nicknames too – “Canada’s Ocean Playground,” and “Bluenosers” (for the residents). The French (who have to be different) called the whole region ‘Acadia’ or ‘Acadie’, not to forget the indigenous Mi’kmaq people whose name for NS was Mi’kma’ki.
Most things in Nova Scotia, roads in particular, are bilingual – English and French. I enjoyed revising my basic French while driving around!!
Our first base was in Bridgewater, a small town on the outskirts of Halifax. To start with, we spent three days driving to a few of the popular visitor spots not too far from Bridgewater.
PEGGY’S COVE and LIGHTHOUSE
One of the MUST STOPS in Nova Scotia is the popular Peggy’s Cove.
Located on the ‘Lighthouse Route’ the tiny village along with its lighthouse is the most-visited attraction in Nova Scotia. The 1-1/2 hour drive (102 Km) to Peggy’s Cove passes through scenic coastal towns and includes many views of the glistening Atlantic.
Peggy’s cove is a peaceful nook that provides some shelter from seasonal harsh weather and rough waves blowing in from the North Atlantic Ocean. Apart from the cove itself, we enjoyed the ambience created by many types of fishing gear strewn around, in between old wooden buildings. Boats, mostly small but tough looking, nudged against one another in the sheltered inlets of the sea. I loved taking photographs to capture the charm of this coastal village in my camera.
A short background and history of Peggys Cove, Nova Scotia
King George III of England had granted some land to a few fishermen and their families back in 1811, and they settled here. A story is also told of the lone survivor of a disastrous shipwreck, named Peggy – also known as ‘Peggy from the Cove’ here. Perhaps, the name Peggy is a derivative of Margaret and this may refer to St Margaret’s Bay – Peggy’s Cove is located at the entrance to this bay.
The fisherfolk and others who settled here had a hard life, fishing in the unpredictable North Atlantic and trading via the waterways – roads came much later. Today there is a Church, some general stores, a Post Office, schools and of course, the lighthouse too.
We also noticed that on the sides of the village, there are broad stretches of empty land. Apparently, this is the Peggy’s Cove Preservation areas, largely bogs and shallow ponds.
The Villages around the Cove
As we walked around the place, we loved the sights of the charming fishing village – loads of lobster traps, heaps of ropes, fishing nets drying in the wind and empty boats bobbing up and down on the water. I enjoyed trapping the scenes in my camera. The colors were awesome – how would they be in the fall, we wondered.
The roads to the villages are narrow and, like in many similar places, there is no parking facility except near the lighthouse.
There are a few restaurants around here. Many sell souvenirs and yummy seafood.
Lighthouse
Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, perched atop massive granite rocks, is the main attraction for most of the visitors to this place.
When we arrived, we were surprised at the number of tourists all around the place with their cameras and mobile phones in action!
It’s difficult to get a picture of the lighthouse without people around it.
A bit of history
The first lighthouse at Peggys Cove was a wooden structure built in 1868. The harsh weather of the coast destroyed it over the years, and in 1914 a concrete lighthouse was built – the current lighthouse – specifically designed to withstand the rough coastal conditions.
The bright white and red colour combination of the lighthouse can be seen from a distance and even through foggy conditions.
Initially, lightkeepers were needed to keep the lighthouse operational, but in 1958 it was automated.
It is the most photographed lighthouse in Canada.
One has to be very careful when while walking or balancing on the uneven rocks. There are unexpected, rough waves that come on very quickly and could sweep you away.
UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE TOWN – LUNENBURG
On the second day, we drove to the unique town of Lunenburg, just a 20 mins’ drive from Bridgewater. We were pleasantly surprised that it is a UNESCO World Heritage Town, featuring colorful houses, horse carriages, and an inviting waterfront!
Established in 1753, Lunenburg old town is one of the surviving examples of a planned British colonial settlement in North America. It has been laid out in a rectangular grid pattern. Lunenburg town has a seafaring history and a maritime culture – waiting to be explored.
Did you know that only 19 such towns, in the entire world, have been named as UNESCO world heritage sites?
We found the wooden architecture of the houses quite interesting. We learnt that some of them are from 18th century.
Many streets have these old wooden architecture houses, all colorful, lining the narrow streets.
How about a ride on a horse drawn carriage?
Trot in Time Buggy Rides offer a good experience through this historic town. It is totally worth taking this ride which comes with a historical commentary including legends and special tales.
The horse rides conveniently start at the Fisheries Museum parking lot by the waterfront.
Head up the hill towards Kaulbauch Street for sweeping views
We drove from the Fisheries Museum waterfront towards Kaulbauch street and to Gallows Hill and enjoyed some awesome views of the town including the colorful houses and the surrounding parts of the town.
The iconic Lunenburg Academy is impressive with its 3 storeys and 4 towers – an ancient schoolhouse builit in 1895 and painted in red, black and white.
View and set sail on the Legendary Bluenose II
Bluenose II is a 43 metre (143 feet) replica of the original schooner docked in Lunenburg. While the original Bluenose (Nova Scotia’s sailing ambassador) was launched in 1921, Bluenose II was launched in 1963.
If she is moored in Lunenberg while you are there, you could go on a 2 hour sail. It is a must-do activity in Lunenburg.
We were looking forward to going on this sail. Unfortunately, Bluenose II was not in the harbour on the day we visited Lunenburg! Maybe next time!
MAHONE BAY
Mahone Bay is a vibrant coastal town on Nova Scotia’s South Shore. It is located about an hour’s drive (85kms) from Halifax and about 14 minutes’ drive (11 kms) from Lunenburg.
It is popular for its rich maritime history and artisan boutiques apart from having a relaxed seaside atmosphere.
As we walked along the streets of Mahone Bay, we found this place to have a community feel. There are not too many formal cafes or restaurants. Instead, there are little shops selling coffee, tea, hot chocolate and savouries, with very informal sitting areas – chairs under shady trees. There are bake shops with delicious homemade pies and cakes, and local boutiques housed in heritage buildings.
Post cards on Mahone Bay often have pictures of the iconic 3 churches in a row – one Anglican, one Evangelical Lutheran and one United church. These churches were built in the late 1800s or early 1900s.
We guess that the fall season is the best time to visit Mahone bay when it will be resplendent with fall colors.
After three days in Bridgewater Nova Scotia, we started our drive southward to explore Yarmouth and surrounds.
