Ever looked down into a live volcano from the very edge of its crater?

Not some teeny-weeny sleepy little volcano either. It erupted just 3 years ago, stands a full mile above sea level, and is one of the largest in the world.  Where would you find such a gem? In Japan, of course.  It is Mount Aso, in Aso Kujū National Park on the island of Kyushu.

Mind, you can’t just land up any day you like and get to experience the grandeur of this smoking giant.  If you are lucky, you will be allowed to reach Mount Nakadake, and stand at the crater’s edge viewpoint, on a day when the wind blows the sulphurous fumes away from you, the weather is clear and no eruption is imminent. It is cold and very windy, too, so some protection is necessary.

Once you are there the view is awesome.  The crater is a multi-coloured boiling cauldron spewing white and grey smoke. It keeps changing as you gaze down, a sign of the immense power lying underneath, waiting to be unleashed.  We stayed there rather a longish time, partly because this was the one active volcano which you could actually see very close-up without having to hike to the peak, and partly because we were told that we would be shooed away if the wind shifted or the weather changed.

We drove to Mount Aso from Fukuoka, and the drive itself was very pleasant, apart from the growing anticipation arising from glimpses of the smoking peak.  We passed through a grass-covered plain with grazing cows and a few horses.  There was no sign of the devastation that the recent eruption must have caused – everything was so peaceful and serene. Not far from the Nakadake crater is Kusasenri (or Kusasenri-ga-hama), a  shallow square prairie with a large pond in the center, where horses graze.  Riding is possible. and the scenery is truly charming. You must drop in at the Aso Volcano Museum which tells you all about the volcano. Another nice spot is Komezuka, a small and pretty volcanic cone on the northern slopes of Nakadake. You can try out several pleasant walking trails in the vicinity, but they don’t take you to the top of Komezuka, though.

There is a well organized and informative visitor centre near the foot of the volcano and, a little further on a restaurant area with good parking and excellent views of the volcano. We were told by our Japanese host that Aso’s natural ground water is special, which makes the food very delicious. We tried the Aka-ushi (Red-beef), very tasty, but stayed away from Bashashi (Horse meat). Our drink was Aso cow milk, very famous in Japan we were told, and very delicious.

If time permits, try to drop in at the nearby small and friendly town of Aso itself, with one of Japan’s most revered shrines, under repair from the eruption damage.

It’s a bit difficult to visit Mount Aso using public transport, because the rather infrequent timings restrict you to only a limited time you can spend at the crater. Also, if you want to see the Volcano Museum, spend some time in Kusasenri, or hike around the crater, you will you need the flexibility of your own transport.  It’s better to rent a car either in the town of Aso or city of Kumamoto. Rentals are not too expensive for a smallish car, even one-way. 

This can be a unique and exciting day-trip from Fukuoka or Kumamoto.

Mount Aso, Japan
Mount Aso in Kyushu, Japan

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