Another hidden gem discovered by accident – a charming village with a lovely waterfall.

Cenarth is a half hour drive from New Quay on the Teifi river, between Cardigan and Newcastle Emlyn. It is a tiny village which meets an important criterion for a “propah” British village – two pubs – but not much else, except for its beautiful waterfall.

The Teifi river cascades down the hard rock to produce a series of waterfalls. Access is easy – a walk along the riverside with no climbing involved. We found parking and walked alongside the river and across a 17th century bridge which gives you a great view of the falls. These falls are, apparently, even more charming during the rains, but we were glad to have a sunny day and not rain!

In the season salmon leap over the waterfalls to their spawning grounds, making Cenarth known for its abundant salmon. We didn’t see any, though!!

If you keep walking on the riverside past the falls you will reach a secluded gorge, with trees on either side and lots of birds, a lovely place for getting closer to nature. A circular trail brings you back to the village.

          Visit The Coracle Museum

A very unusual feature of Cenarth is the Coracle Museum, indeed a very interesting museum to visit. What’s a coracle – did you ask? It’s a bowl-shape boat, made of leather stretched over a wooden frame. You sit in the middle and use a paddle to get to where you want. Coracles were very common in Britain in the past, though rare now. History says that coracles were used to catch salmon along the Teifi river in the 1940s. Coracle fishing is ancient art. A pair of coracles suspend a net between them – often at night – to catch sewin and salmon as they start to move upstream. The Museum tells you how coracles are made, and about coracles in different parts of the world.

In the grounds of the Coracle Centre you will find a 17th-century mill, which can be visited for an additional fee. There has been a mill here since at least the 13th century.

Salmon Poaching History

There is an interesting story about the history of poaching on the River Teifi. From at least the 13th-century, water from the falls ran through a channel that directed water to the watermill on the south bank. There was a hidden trap door in the floor of the mill, and the miller would open the door and catch salmon swimming underneath the mill. It was completely illegal, but a part of the poaching heritage employed by poor locals who devised all manner of tricks to catch salmon illegally in the dead of night, apart from coracle fishing.

After a very nice long walk for an hour or two, you will need sustenance – choose between the pubs and the Ty Te tea-room. Pub fare or Welsh scones with cream and marmalade – yummy !! We can vouch for the White Hart Inn where we had a delicious pub meal!

We were fortunate to find this quaint village and its beautiful waterfall, quite by accident. If you want to spend a few hours with nature, away from crowds, Cenarth Falls is a great choice. 

Cenarth falls in Wales, UK
Cenarth Falls in Wales

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