Another hidden gem discovered by accident – a charming village with a lovely waterfall.
Cenarth is a half hour drive from New Quay on the Teifi river, between Cardigan and Newcastle Emlyn. It is a tiny village which meets an important criterion for a “propah” British village – two pubs – but not much else, except for its beautiful waterfall.
The Teifi river cascades down the hard rock to produce a series of waterfalls. Access is easy – a walk along the riverside with no climbing involved. We found parking and walked alongside the river and across a 17th century bridge which gives you a great view of the falls. These falls are, apparently, even more charming during the rains, but we were glad to have a sunny day and not rain!
If you keep walking on the riverside past the falls you will reach a secluded gorge, with trees on either side and lots of birds, a lovely place for getting closer to nature. A circular trail brings you back to the village.
Visit The Coracle Museum
A very unusual feature of Cenarth is the Coracle Museum, indeed a very interesting museum to visit. What’s a coracle – did you ask? It’s a bowl-shape boat, made of leather stretched over a wooden frame. You sit in the middle and use a paddle to get to where you want. Coracles were very common in Britain in the past, though rare now. History says that coracles were used to catch salmon along the Teifi river in the 1940s. Coracle fishing is ancient art. A pair of coracles suspend a net between them – often at night – to catch sewin and salmon as they start to move upstream. The Museum tells you how coracles are made, and about coracles in different parts of the world.
In the grounds of the Coracle Centre you will find a 17th-century mill, which can be visited for an additional fee. There has been a mill here since at least the 13th century.
Salmon Poaching History
There is an interesting story about the history of poaching on the River Teifi. From at least the 13th-century, water from the falls ran through a channel that directed water to the watermill on the south bank. There was a hidden trap door in the floor of the mill, and the miller would open the door and catch salmon swimming underneath the mill. It was completely illegal, but a part of the poaching heritage employed by poor locals who devised all manner of tricks to catch salmon illegally in the dead of night, apart from coracle fishing.
After a very nice long walk for an hour or two, you will need sustenance – choose between the pubs and the Ty Te tea-room. Pub fare or Welsh scones with cream and marmalade – yummy !! We can vouch for the White Hart Inn where we had a delicious pub meal!
We were fortunate to find this quaint village and its beautiful waterfall, quite by accident. If you want to spend a few hours with nature, away from crowds, Cenarth Falls is a great choice.
Discoveries like this are the best, aren’t they? This waterfall is lovely!
Love those bridges! After such a picturesque walk a scone or pub fare sounds delightful!
What a fun find! These are the types of places we love to stumble upon when we are traveling, or just driving. The photos are wonderful, makes me want to catch a plane and just go to see them. Thanks for sharing.
I love chasing waterfalls. And finding an undiscovered one is always a treat. Thank you for sharing this so, I can add it to my list to find on my return to Wales.
Don’t you just love discovering places and sites by accident? I love travel planning but the joy you get for stumbling across something you hadn’t anticipated or planned is epic.
I really love the architechture of the old bridges, I cant imagine the joy of seeing that in real life 🙂
I’m partial to a waterfall and this looks lovely. I haven’t been to Wales in ages but when I do I will check this out.
I love waterfalls and these falls look stunning. Cenarth, which is a half hour drive from New Quay on the Teifi river, between Cardigan and Newcastle Emlyn looks worth visiting for nature lovers like me. I love cascaded waterfalls and good to know that here Teifi river overflows on these rocks like a cascaded form.
On the travel wish list! Would love to visit Wales. And we would definitely plan to search out the waterfalls. I love falls like Cenarth Falls that are a series of waterfalls, accessible with a walk along the banks. It would be fascinating to visit when the salmon are leaping over the waterfalls. A pub stop when we are finished sounds like just the way to finish.
Wow those falls look amazing! And how cool that there is a 17th century bridge!! That must have been amazing to walk over and to take in the incredible views.
That would be so cool to see the salmon swimming upstream. Who’d thunk that there would be illegal salmon fishing like that?!
Oh how this reminds me of my travels in Wales 20+ years ago! I would love to go back and see Cenarth Falls. Although I must admit a pub lunch or cream tea afterwards is the most appealing part 😉
Beautiful waterfall and thank you for sharing about the Coracle Museum, I had no idea what a coracle was! I love learning something new.
Love the story about salmon poaching! There’s so much hidden history for those who care to look.
Absolutely a wonderful find! It’s kind of small town we like to visit. I’ve never heard about the coracle, but now I know. It’s an interesting shape and materials.