New Zealand. North or South? We decided to do both.

Although the main destination for scenic beauty for many is South Island, a visit to this beautiful country would not be complete without including North Island.

Geothermal hot springs, pristine beaches, glow worm caves, massive volcanoes and captivating landscape – these are what we found in the North Island, and we loved our trip here.

A long flight from Singapore took us to Auckland where a quarter of New Zealand’s population lives.  Despite being a busy city, it offers some beautiful sights.

We picked up our rental car from the airport and started on our 10-day North Island drive. Here’s our route map:

North Island route map
 

Auckland

Mount Eden, a dormant volcano now completely covered with grass, provides great views of downtown Auckland. Sunrise or sunset are the best times to take in the gorgeous colours.  It is a fairly steep climb up, and comfortable walking shoes are a must.

Aucklanders adore One Tree Hill (Maungakiekie), located within Cornwalk Park and surrounded by flower beds, majestic trees and walking trails. The peak is adorned by an obelisk.  Great views from here, too.

Auckland Skyline
One Tree Hill and Obelisk in Auckland
Mount Eden

The best thing to do while in Auckland in our opinion is the scenic drive around Devonport via Northcote Point to get a charming view of the Auckland Harbour Bridge and the city. King Edward Parade and Calliope Road, overlooking Stanley Bay, are also very much worth the drive. 

Waitomo

The first leg of our trip was a two-hour drive to Waitomo, via Hamilton.

The main attraction at Waitomo are its Caves, full of swarming glow worms, and stalactites & stalagmites. 

 

Waitomo Caves - Stalactites and Stalagmites
Waitomo caves with glow worms
New Zealand roads

The cave tour took us in a boat (pulled by hand with a rope), in total darkness and complete silence, through a massive cavern swarming with millions of glow worms – this black water rafting as it is called was truly amazing experience.

Waitomo is one of the many places to see glow worms in New Zealand. 

Rotorua

Our next destination was the geothermal wonderland – Rotorua, another 2 hours from Waitomo.

We had always wondered what lies inside a volcano. The closest to this can be found at Rotorua, where the very earth boils and hisses, and weird smelling gases waft through the air. In Kuirau park, very close to the city center, we saw mud pools, craters ejecting steam, pools of boiling hot water, and many other types of geothermal wonders. In lovely contrast to all these volcanic wonders were the lovely blue and green lakes! 

 

Geothermal effect in Rotorua, New Zealand
Hundreds of birds in Rotorua
Black swans, geese and white gulls by the stormy water

For someone really into geothermal stuff, Waimangu Volcanic Valley is the place.  Apart from its many wonders, the Valley also houses lovely walks, graded for duration and difficulty, and boat cruises in Lake Rotomahana.

We were surprised to see hundreds of white gulls and many black swans swimming at Kaikaitahuna Bay on a rainy day! (see images above). 

Lake Taupo 

Our journey continued southwards to Lake Taupo and Huka falls.

Lake Taupo is a huge blue lake, the flooded caldera of the now extinct Taupo super volcano.  Several walking tracks wind around it and many scenic lookout spots appear along the way. As we walked, we could hear a steady roar at a distance. That was Huka falls announcing itself!

Huka falls in Taupo
Lake Taupo
Another view of Huka falls

From Lake Taupo the water flows along a broad canyon which narrows sharply at one point, and the water thunders down a series of waterfalls into the Waikoto river.  The enormous flow of water creates a massive roar which we had heard from afar.  The massive gush of water through the narrow gorge makes an awesome sight which held our gaze for a long time. Afterwards we went on a river cruise which took us right up to the crystal-blue pool at the base of the falls until we could feel the spray on our faces.

Wanganui 

Wanganui (also spelt as Whanganui) came next on our trip. We avoided State Highway 4, which runs through gentle hill country dotted with rivers, preferring the long and winding drive to Wanganui along the more scenic mountainous route.

Wanganui is a beautiful riverside city with a long history, restored heritage areas, and several various options for boat rides and riverine expeditions on kayaks, canoes or rafts.

The entrance to the elevator at Anzac Parade
Durie Tower Entrance tunnel
Murals on the side wall Durie hill elevator entrance
The big draw in Wanganui, and very rightly so, are the Durie Hill Tower and Elevator. A walk down the sixty-six meter long pedestrian tunnel took us to an ancient elevator, entirely embedded within the hill, which climbs to the top of Durie Hill where a 360 degree view awaited us – the coastline on one side, the city below, Mt Ruapehu and Mt Taranaki in the distance, and the Wanganui River meandering through the countryside. We couldn’t resist climbing up a spiral staircase to the top of a smaller tower, just to gain more height for an even better view. We tarried until dusk to watch the wondrous colours of the sunset over the Tasman Sea.
Wanganui - City View
Impressive Durie Tower
The bridge to nowhere, Wanganui, New Zealand

Curiosity took us the next morning to a trail leading to the mysterious ‘Bridge to Nowhere’, which had been built across the Mangapurua Gorge to reach a remote settlement.  The settlement has been abandoned a long time ago, and only the ‘Bridge to Nowhere’ remains. 

En Route to Wellington 

We headed towards Wellington on the last leg of our North island drive.

We love zoos and automobile museums! Surely, we found one of each and had to stop.

Southward Car Museum

An 1895 Benz that looks like a cross between a horse carriage and a go cart, a 1930s gangster limo riddled with bullet holes, and some Bugatti and Bentleys too – the museum display includes a car for every occasion.  There are more than 400 such classic cars in the collection, all spic and span, including some 50s cars that brought back childhood memories.

New Zealand's Oldest Car
Gangster Cadillac
Classic cars in Southward car museum
Stags in the Stagland Park

Staglands Wildlife Reserve

Staglands Wildlife reserve is an open-air animal farm & petting zoo with tractor rides, feedings & a rustic log café, just an hour’s drive from Wellington.

It is home to a wide range of native and exotic birds and animals in an environment that has been created with nature’s materials. We found people of all ages feeding and freely interacting with the animals and having a lot of fun.

Wellington

We reached New Zealand’s capital city – Wellington, aptly nicknamed Windy Welly. The city is perched on the edge of the Cook strait, in the path of the strong westerly winds known as the Roaring Forties, making the city very windy.

Wellington is a hilly city with slopes and climbs everywhere. A sturdy pair of walking shoes are a must to take advantage of the various hikes and scenes around this city. This city is big on café culture and spectacular views.

Mount Victoria Lookout (aka Matairangi)

This is Wellington’s most impressive viewpoint, located on top of Mount Victoria. You can take a bus most of the way, drive up in your car or sweat it up giving your legs a hard workout.  From the peak we could see the city, its green Town Belt, the hills and harbour, and the airport.

Two interesting finds on the peak:

1)  An old bronze cannon that used to be powder charged and fired every day at noon so that citizens could set their clocks and watches – a time signal used between 1877 and 1900.

2)  An interesting signboard listing all the fault lines in New Zealand including Wellington. (click to zoom the image below).

Cannon at Victoria Peak
Spectacular views from Victoria Peak
Interesting signboard on Victoria Peak

Shelley Bay Circular Coastal Drive

Shelley Bay circular route map
Before handing in our car we went on a scenic coastal drive, from the city centre to Miramar along Evans Bay Parade.  On the way we saw many colourful wind sculptures spinning at the waterfront. After passing the old warehouses of West Point Studio (Lord of the Rings fame), we stopped at the popular café called the Chocolate Fish with a good barbecue menu and deckchairs.

The drive further took us to several sandy beaches around Evans Bay, with great views of sailboats and ferries. We stopped at Massey Memorial, a tomb of former PM William Massey at the tip of the headland, for panoramic views of Wellington harbour.

Scenes of fishermen and ferry in Wellington bay
Sunset at Greymouth, NZ
Roadside signboard at Breaker bay

The scenic drive continued around the peninsula past the Scorching Bay Beach, Worser Bay Boating club and the popular Breaker Bay where we could see a colony of Little Blue Penguins. We could also see the remains of some WW2 bunkers here!

Our North island trip ended at Wellington, and we boarded the Bluebridge Cook Strait Ferry for an enjoyable 2-hour cruise to South Island, where more wonderful experiences awaited us.

Thank you New Zealand – we will come again!

Rotorua in North Island, New Zealand
North Island, New Zealand Pin

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