A huge cave with a waterfall, a boat ride and ancient magic – like the combo?

Add to it a good workout for your legs.

You will find all this in the Smoo Cave and Waterfall, a geological wonder in the Northern Highlands of Scotland. It is one of the popular places to stop by on the Scottish NC500 route.

We came across this hidden gem while driving around in northern Scotland. It has history, legends and myths woven around it as with many places in this part of the world.

Smoo Cave is unique – being the largest sea and freshwater cave located in the remote village of Durness. It is perched on top of weathered limestone cliffs at the mouth of Geodha Smoo inlet (see map) right on the north-western head of Scotland. It resembles the open mouth of a dragon created on the side of the surrounding cliffs.

The cave name is thought to originate from the Norse Smuga or smjugg meaning a hole or hiding place.

MAP OF SMOO CAVE AND SURROUNDS
SMOO CAVE LOCATION

A bit of history

Archeologists have discovered Neolithic, Norse and Iron age artifacts – (some of which are told to be almost of Mesolithic Age) inside the cave. Legends talk about the cave being a gateway to the fairy world guarded by spirits. A more mundane belief is that the cave was used by smugglers as a natural hiding place.

The cave has unique geographical qualities. There are tunnels and three main chambers in the cave:

The first is a large main cavern that visitors walk inside and explore.

The second smaller cavern has the breathtaking cascading waterfall. This waterfall was truly raging and forceful even in May. It crashes almost 80 feet through a hole in the stone ceiling and down into the second cavern.

The third inner cavern or chamber can be accessed only by a guided geological tour which includes a boat ride. This Smoo Cave geological boat trip can be arranged provided it is considered safe by the Smoo Cave management. There are times when the boat trip is not available.

Cave Entrance
Smoo Cave waterfall Vertical view
Footbridge to the second chamber
Steps leading to the top of the cliff
View of the sea and inlet between the cliffs

What to see and do at Smoo Cave

Car park is rather tight and could have been bigger.

The Smoo Cave is accessed via a steep stairway down the cliffs, and then a footbridge. The path which descends from the car park to the cave is rather steep and uneven and requires caution.

– Walk down the stairs and footbridge stopping at various points for awesome views of the external cave and the beach at the bottom.

– When you reach the bottom, walk towards the beach and spend some time taking in the views and photos.

– Walk back towards the cave and enter the first chamber. Its entrance quite impressive – it’s like walking towards a giant mouth.

– Go further over the footbridge and view the roaring massive waterfall.

– Now if the boat ride is open, you may go to the third chamber and enjoy the ride which lasts about 20 minutes. The boat ride takes you to a point where you can scramble into the darker recesses of the cavern if you are comfortable with it. There is little lighting here. Waterproof clothing and sturdy shoes are advised.

– In addition, if you want to take up more challenge, climb up the dramatic stairs by the side of the cliffs going around to the top to enjoy some awesome views of the open sea at the inlet.

View of the inlet from the top
View of outside from inside the cave

We are told that the cave belongs to the Durness Group of limestones and was originally created by natural processes of erosion in the Early Ordovician dolomites. Seawater eroded the limestone cliffs and formed the cavern.

It happens to be the largest sea cave entrance in Britain, being about 49 feet high and 130 feet wide.

Smoo Cave is unique especially because the chamber where waterfall is located was formed through freshwater and rainfall erosion.

OTHER THINGS TO SEE AND DO NEAR SMOO CAVE

  • Durness Bay and beach

Within minutes from Smoo Cave are the pristine Durness bay and beach. We had a long walk along the scenic beach. There are small shops around the car park where you can get good hot chocolate and ice cream.

 

  • Balnakeil Chapel and beach

Balnakeil Chapel is a ruined historic site in the northwest of Scotland. This roofless church dates back to 1619 and has informative signboards on the site.

Although the chapel is in ruins, it’s interesting to walk around the structures and look at the headstones.

It is located at the end of the Balnakeil Bay and beach overlooking vast sand dunes. The bay is wide with a large expanse of white sand and clear turquoise waters.

Make sure to walk down the beautiful beach and enjoy some great views. Balnakeil Beach is perfect and the sea is inviting thanks to the shallow bay that is protected by the Faraid headland.

There are no facilities here. The nearby Balnakeil Craft Village has a good café.

Durness
Balnakeil Beach
Sheep in Durness
Balnakeil Chapel ruins
Faraid Head beach
Balnakeil Chapel next to the beach
  • Faraid Head

A bit further from Balnakeil beach is the Faraid Head on a peninsula in northwest Scotland.

The area near the beach is full of sand dunes and high grass providing nesting site for seabirds.

It has gorgeous scenery – peaceful and quiet. At Faraid Head, there’s a great walk through the dunes on easy paths.

Smoo cave and surrounds are some interesting attractions in the remotest part of Northwest Scotland and worth a visit if you are passing by. You will not easily find a similar cave elsewhere.

Smoo Cave, Durness
Smoo Cave in Scotland

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