Northwest Tasmania is pretty much as far out as it gets. Perhaps that is why it has preserved the characteristic rugged beauty of its coastlines, tranquil rivers, ancient rainforests and mysterious caves.

Moreover, unique wildlife and unspoilt natural scenery abound this region.

We based ourselves in Smithton, a lovely town in the far northwest of the Bass highway. We were pleasantly surprised at this busy little town with large supermarkets, good roads and restaurants. It is still the timber capital of Tasmania as well as the regional centre for dairy, beef, and fishing.

The Tarkine (pronounced tar-kyne) region in Tasmania’s northwest is known as one of the world’s largest temperate rainforests, full of eucalyptus, myrtle, pine and lush green vegetation.

TARKINE DRIVE

The Tarkine drive starts at a point close to Smithton, and runs in a circular loop about 200 km in length. You can drive the entire loop in one day, driving either clockwise or anti-clockwise. Alternatively, you can go in one direction on day 1, towards the Edge of the World, for instance, and return to Smithton.  The next day you can go the other way, towards Julius River.  The two-day plan will mean that you will skip the stretch from Edge of the World to Julius River, but you will have more time to stop, walk, look and enjoy.

Yes, there is a lot to see! You will find remote beaches, sand dunes, forest vistas, waterfalls and sinkholes along the way, and many such places will beckon you for a short stop.

TRAVEL TIPS

It is a stand-alone route, deep into the wilderness and totally off the beaten track, and we found very few cars when we drove along it in April. The roads are generally two-lanes but there are many parts that are bumpy and uneven. However, there is very little traffic.

Although most of the roads are sealed, they always become unsealed close to every destination so that the last few kilometres are on muddy dirt roads. So, it may be a good idea to rent a 4WD (we had one) or go in a group of two cars in case of an issue due to the road surface.

Mobile reception is generally poor through most of this route, and google maps don’t work! It is better to carry a printed map or good directions. Signage is good at the beginning of specific roads, but not everywhere.

It can rain at any time, so be prepared to even drive back if the weather turns too nasty.

GAS AND SERVICES IN THE TARKINE ROUTE

The Tarkine drive route is quite remote and there are very few places with services.

The only place with a gas station is Marrawah (at the end of the route on one side of the loop). There is a small store, a pub and a post office here. The population is (hold your breath) 131!!

The other place is Arthur River where there is a tiny store, with a food take-away counter but no gas. We stopped here for a hot chocolate.

So, please take some small snacks and drinks and fill up your car before you start

BEST STOPS IN THE TARKINE DRIVE

Here are some of the best stops you should not miss:

THE EDGE OF THE WORLD

The name is definitely exciting and the viewpoint is totally awesome at this westernmost point overlooking the vast Indian Ocean.  It does feel like you are at the world’s edge!

There is a long boardwalk path and a viewing platform, from where you can walk right to the edge over the rocks. When you look westwards, you can just see the ocean stretching as far as you can see. There is nothing between this point and South Africa!

It is very, very windy and you can just about manage to stand here for a few minutes, barely enough to admire the aboriginal symbols for the months of the year, embedded in a big round circle. We stayed on for as long as we could because this place has a unique charm in a rugged sort of way.

This is one of the few places in this route that has toilets. There is a picnic and barbecue area too, but I wonder if you can cook with so much wind.

You cannot miss this place as the signage is good en route. The last one kilometre is unsealed.

ARTHUR RIVER AND CRUISES

The Arthur River town has a beach and a river. The ranger station and visitor centre may or may not be open (It was closed in April when we passed through).

The route crosses Arthur River more than once at different points on this wild river.

We passed by what appeared to be where Arthur River Cruises start but apart from the signboards and some cruise boats, it was deserted but pretty. Perhaps they work only during high peak season. 

SUMAC LOOKOUT

This is one of our best points in this route.

This part of Tarkine route is the beginning of the temperate rain forest section. There is a short downward sloping walk through a dirt path from the tiny car park. It can be slippery though, if it has rained recently.

The view of the Arthur River cutting its way through the surrounding dense forested hills is simply spectacular!

The viewpoint has a nice bench to sit and enjoy the view.

TROWUTTA ARCH

Another popular and amazing destination in the Tarkine route.

Trowutta Arch was formed by the collapse of an ancient cave. The roof of the cave fell in leaving one section between two sink holes.

There are two arches here. The first arch is difficult to pass through as it is full of small rocks and stones but as you walk through it, there is a nice view of the second one which is a bit far off. The second one is full of water.

The walk is about 45 minutes from the car park. You will need to cross two unsealed gravel roads to reach here, but it is worth it.

JULIUS RIVER RAINFOREST WALKS

Another Tarkine treasure! These are great walking tracks to get out of the car and give your legs a good work out.

There are two loop tracks at the Julius River stop. The longer walk takes about an hour and loops through the forest.

The shorter loop track is about 45 mins and is more fun because the track runs along the river, then over a bridge and then climbs a hill looping back to the car park.

There were ferns and ancient plants and great scenery around. The forest floor was full of all kinds of fungi and mushrooms. From the raised boardwalk, we could see over the side of the hills and fallen trees of the rainforest and the river below.

This is a must-do stop. There are picnic tables, barbecues and toilets too.

There are more stops in more remote places for the adventurous.

As mentioned earlier, Smithton is probably the best base, but Stanley is another option although it is further and would mean another 45 mins drive.

Stanley is definitely worth looking around apart from using it as a base. There are some awesome places in Stanley to drive around and explore.

A bit about Stanley

Stanley is a town in the far north-west of Tasmania – unique because of its location on a small neck of land. It is famous for ‘the Nut’ – a volcanic landform on the headland.

Driving to Stanley from the mainland across the Bass Highway makes it very picturesque and its views are simply awesome.

Walk down Geoffrey beach

Breathtaking views of the Nut and the beach itself – pristine sand, flocks of gulls, reflections on the water and total peace and quiet. You can walk for an hour or more on this beach. It is like the beach belongs to you – you will see very few people around. It is so beautiful that we couldn’t stop taking pics as the colors kept changing at sunset.

Geoffrey Beach Penguin viewing tour

There is a viewing platform illuminated by special red lighting (to not disturb the penguins) at the end of Geoffrey beach. It is advised to leave cameras and torches behind while watching the penguins head to their burrows. This tour is available from September to March.

The Highfield historic house and viewpoint

A historic house constructed in 1826 as the first European settlement in the north-west, with some dark history.

The best part of this property is its location high up on the hill that provides the amazing view of the NUT. This is another good vantage point on the hill for a great view of the lush farmland and town below.

This part of Tasmania is a must-see for anyone who loves a bit of adventure travel.

We spent 3 days in this region and drove off eastward towards Burnie for our next adventure.

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