Japan is a chain of islands, long, narrow and mountainous, and the best way to see all of it is its superb rail networks. So, rather than drive, we built our Japan tour around the Japan rail pass, bought before we reached Japan, which allowed us unlimited rides on the famous Bullet Train – Shinkansen.

As our base we chose the beautiful port city of Kobe instead of the crowded and touristy metros – Tokyo or Osaka. Kobe lies on the main train route, just 20 minutes from Osaka, 30 minutes from Kyoto and 2 hours from Hiroshima and Fukuoka in the south. Our longest trip was to Hokkaido, the north island, via the Seikan Tunnel (world’s longest undersea rail tunnel) and it took only 9 hours.

We took short trips to various destinations such as 5 days in Hokkaido, 3 days in Tokyo, 3 days in Kyoto, 2 days in Osaka, a day each in Shikoku and Hiroshima and 3 days in Kyushu. In between each of these trips, we returned to our base, Kobe for a day or two. 

A Few Words about the Bullet Train:

Japanese Shinkansen

Superfast, spotlessly clean, almost empty (free seat reservations just before boarding the train), always on time, with ticket checkers who bow before and after taking your ticket for inspection. Smiling, and bowing, attendants come around with Bento Boxes – Japanese meals (Ekiben) which are absolutely fresh and tasty. Altogether it is a grand ride!

Bento box or Ekiben

Kobe – What to see

Kobe is full of beautiful sights, and the best way to get around is the hop-on hop-off City Loop bus which stops at 17 spots during its 65 minute round trip.

Kobe Port Tower

A good place to start is this 105 meter red lattice featuring an observation deck with views of the sprawling port and the Rokko mountain range, plus the nightly “light show” on nearby Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge. The Kobe Maritime Museum – next door – is also worth a visit. 

Kobe tower skyline
Akashi Kaikyō Bridge, Kobe, Japan

Akashi Kaikyō Bridge

It is Japan’s tallest bridge, and also the world’s longest suspension bridge (nearly 4 KM long), connecting Kobe to Awaji Island. The glass-floored Maiko Marine Promenade, on the Kobe side of the bridge, has an observation lounge with a superb view of the Akashi Strait and Osaka Bay, plus a café.

Nunobiki Falls

is a series of waterfalls which cascade down the mountain side, a beautiful sight which has inspired artists and poets over the ages. Careful, getting there involves a trek along a 400 meter path which is very steep in places.

Nunobiki falls, Kobe, Japan
Nunobiki garden, Kobe

Nunobiki Herb Garden

Located on Mount RokkoNunobiki garden features thousands of herbs plus greenhouses, grand displays of flowers, exhibits and a cafe. Its glasshouses, where we can get a herbal foot soak, are worth roaming around. If you are interested you can pick up some knowledge of flora through interactive teaching spots along the walkways.

Mount Rokko

 It is accessible by a cable car as well as a hike, is known for the grand view of Osaka bay. At night this view is really awesome, said to be one of the three best night-time views in all of Japan. 

 

Arima Onsen

 

It is one of the oldest and best hot springs in Japan, can be reached by a subway from Shin-Kobe station. The golden onsen water is said to be rejuvenating and very good for your skin.

Arima is a charming and picturesque village which snuggles into a leafy and serene corner of the mountains adjacent to Rokko mountain. Several walking paths, lined with many beautiful narrow alleyways, temples and shrines, lead to some of the more historic parts of the city.

 

Arima Onsen in Kobe

Taxis

After walking around all day, we simply couldn’t trudge up the long and steep hill to home and bed – a taxi was needed. Beware, Japanese taxis are expensive, about $5 per mile, but you get luxury for the price. The driver is in white uniform, complete with peaked cap and white gloves. When you approach a taxi he opens the door by pulling a lever. The seats are lovingly covered with white lace. Money is paid and returned on a small tray extended by the driver. And – no tips!

Food and Drink

One cannot finish off Kobe without mentioning its famed food and drink. 

Kobe beef

The renowned Kobe beef is usually served as a steak or as teppanyaki (grilled on an iron plate), but there are other (surprising) ways to have it, too. Akashiyaki is octopus in an egg batter, cooked on the takoyaki grill. The western croquette called Korokke is popular and worth a try! It is made of minced meat, eggs and vegetables, served with mashed potatoes,  and a salad. 

Kobe Korokke (croquettes)
Action in a Sake Brewery museum
Sake stacked in a brewery

 No Japanese meal is complete without Sake (Japanese rice wine, served warm in small cups). Hyogo Prefecture, where Kobe is located, is the largest producer of refined sake in the country. There are two museums, Hakutsuru Sake Brewery Museum and Kiku Masamune Sake Brewery Museum, which display the brewing process of traditional Japanese sake. Both offer free samples of freshly brewed and unrefined sake.

Serene, pretty and uncluttered by tourists, Kobe will be an ideal base for your forthcoming Japan trip. Take our word for it.

Kobe Bridge, Japan
Mount Rokko

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